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Wednesday, December 28, 2011
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Sunday, December 25, 2011
Semigloss Versus Flat Paint
Obviously, the main difference between semigloss versus flat paint is the level of reflectiveness. Semigloss paint gives a shiny finish that reflects any available light. This often makes it a better choice for interior paint than exterior. Depending on your area and the amount of shade around the house, direct sunlight may reflect too much for semigloss paint to be appropriate outside.
The reflective nature of semigloss paint will emphasize any scratches or dings in the walls, making flat paint a better choice in older homes with some damage and wear. Flat paints can be very useful in painting over areas in new drywall construction where the taping is not sanded as smoothly as it should be. Joints where a porous compound was used for bonding may also be a good candidate for flat paint versus semiglossy. These areas of new construction can be primed later on and a new coat of glossy paint can be applied once all of the imperfections have been smoothed out.
Semigloss paint is also less durable than flat because minor scratches can be enough to mar the entire wall's appearance. This may be something to consider if you have pets or small children that will be bumping into the walls. Unfortunately, flat paint is harder to clean, which may make the tradeoff about even. Flat paint is more porous, which allows dirt to stick far better than it would on a glossy surface.
The answer to this may be a compromise somewhere in the middle. Eggshell paints are now available that give you a little bit of a glossy finish without becoming as bright as a semigloss paint. This offers more stain protection than a flat paint while still being forgiving enough to use in damaged or high-traffic areas of your home. Eggshell paint is often a good choice for exterior uses where you want a touch of shine without it becoming blinding in the midday sun.
Glossy and semigloss paint is generally not a good idea for ceilings as they will reflect the room's light back down toward the occupants. If you
Monday, December 19, 2011
6' Western Red Cedar Fence
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Friday, December 16, 2011
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
Got Wood? We've got it covered and protected. Wood: Staining, Cleaning and Restoration.
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Sunday, November 27, 2011
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The Wagner Paint Crew piston pump paint sprayer delivers the performance, versatility and spray pattern of a pro contractor unit at a fraction of the price. Features pressure control for superior exterior painting results using both thin- and thick-bodied materials. Includes FREE roller arm attachment. It is the ultimate house painting tool! Volts: 120, HP: 1/2, Max. PSI: 2800, Hose Length (ft.): 25, Paint Capacity (gal.): 2.5
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Thursday, November 24, 2011
Wood Fence Maintenance Tips For Northwest Homeowners
Prolonged exposure to rain is one of the biggest threats to a wood fence, and in the Pacific Northwest it's unavoidable. For Northwest homeowners, it pays to be extra-vigilant in the care and maintenance of your fence.
To ensure maximum protection from the elements, follow these five steps:
1. Start Before You Build.
You can begin protecting your cedar fence before it's even installed by taking a few preventive measures.
--Survey the building site and notice any concrete, rocks, tree roots, or other obstructions that get in the way of your fence's planned path.
--The support posts for most wood fences need to be placed eight feet apart. Make sure you can dig a two-foot-deep hole for each post without hitting anything harder than soil.
--When pouring concrete for the posts, use only enough to fill the hole. Excess concrete can be forced upward in freezing temperatures, compromising your fence's stability.
2. Look Out for Problems From Above.
Tree branches, leaves, and other debris from above can damage wood fencing, so make sure you're proactive about addressing these issues.
--Before winter, cut or trim any branches hanging over your fence line. Frozen branches can break off and scrape the wood boards, and some have the potential to cause significant damage.
--Keep horizontal fence rails clear of leaves, acorns, shells or twigs, and clean out any material wedged between the rails and the fence boards. Wet organic matter such as leaves can accelerate rot in your fence, and objects squeezed between the rails and boards can reduce your fence's stability over time.
--Clear off any debris covering up the concrete post supports. You may be tempted to cover them up with dirt, bark dust, or other material, but this will increase the chances of decay weakening the concrete.
3. Inspect Your Wood Fence Regularly.
Get in the habit of checking on your fence whenever the seasons change to nip any problems in the bud.
--Address broken or cracking boards, crooked nails, or splinters as soon as possible.
--Examine the grass that immediately borders your fence and trim any overgrowth to keep it from spreading rot to your fence.
--Check your fence at the end of winter for any knotholes. Wood knots have the potential to contract in warmer weather and fall out. Use a wood filler to fill up any knotholes as soon as possible to prevent insects, birds, or even termites from moving in.
4. Use a Protective Fence Stain.
Consider using a stain that's specially formulated Pacific Northwest fencing materials. If you notice the color of your wood fence is beginning to fade, it's time to apply a new coat of stain. Otherwise, plan to restain your fence every two to three years.
5. Follow Up After Storms.
Check your wood fence after any significant storms or weather events to make sure it's stable and level. An easy way to do this is to run a piece of string along the tops of the fence posts. If the string appears level, your posts are secure. If you begin to notice any dips or rises along the string, check the posts for damage and make necessary repairs before the problem worsens.
By carefully monitoring your fence's condition, you can prevent the weather from doing its worst, avoiding costly repairs in the future.
~Ben Serviss, 2010
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Monday, November 21, 2011
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Tuesday, November 8, 2011
How to Make Your Deck Look New Again and Keep it That Way
Your wooden deck or fence is a big investment. Cleaning and sealing it properly will extend its life and make it a source of pride for you and your family. No matter the type of wood, sticking to a scheduled maintenance program will ensure that your deck stays beautiful.
In addition to having your deck professionally cleaned and sealed, you can help protect your investment with some simple tips:
Place flower planters on small cement blocks rather than directly on your deck, where they trap moisture and dirt.
If you have a grill, use a grease catcher. Grease stains can be difficult to remove.
Don't let leaves collect on your deck, because they can leave stains.
Promptly shovel snow from your deck.
If you have a new deck, have it cleaned to kill mildew spores in the wood, remove surface impurities that keep sealers from penetrating, and then protect it with a waterproof sealer.
Don't apply paint or a solid stain to your deck, because they peel and require a lot of maintenance.
Professional cleaning and sealing with the proper products and tools can reduce the need for cleaning and refinishing to every two or three years instead of every year.
Weather and other environmental factors can be devastating to wood. Rain and dew are quickly absorbed by unprotected wood, causing it to soften and swell. When the sun dries the wood, it shrinks. These expansion and contraction cycles cause wood to warp, cup, crack, and gray, leading to premature aging and the need for replacement.
After 1 to 3 years of continuous sun exposure, unprotected wood will begin to gray, which indicates wood fiber degradation and the beginning of structural damage. Like sunburned skin, the grayed surface layer is permanently damaged. In cedar and redwood, this graying can occur within 30 days.
Weather is even harder on decks than on other types of wooden structures. This is because decks are horizontal and allow water to pool on their surface; the moisture attracts pollen and fungal spores, which cause discoloration. Decks are also subject to 50 percent more sunlight than structures with vertical surfaces and have to handle foot traffic.
Some people believe that wood has to "age" before it can be sealed, but this isn't true. The day that you finish installing your deck or other wood structure is the day you need to protect it from premature aging and expensive repairs. Proper cleaning of the wood before staining will ensure that it is able to absorb the wood sealer.
Others believe that pressure-treated wood is weatherproofed, but it isn't. Pressure-treated wood has been injected with a chemical that protects it against rot and wood-eating insects such as termites. But this process does nothing to protect the surface of the wood against weather. In fact, pressure treatment actually makes the wood even more porous and vulnerable.
Look to professionals to protect your investment against the ravages of the weather. We are your metro roof and deck staining specialists!
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